If you've been looking into Smith and Wesson internal lock removal, you're probably already familiar with that little circular hole sitting right above the cylinder release on your revolver. Most folks in the gun community affectionately (or not so affectionately) call it the "Hillary Hole." It's been a point of contention for Smith & Wesson fans for over two decades now, and the debate over whether to keep it or kill it isn't slowing down anytime soon.
For some, it's just an eyesore that ruins the classic lines of a beautiful wheel gun. For others, it's a genuine mechanical concern. If you're carrying a J-frame for self-defense or a big-bore .44 Magnum for bear protection, the last thing you want is a tiny mechanical part deciding to lock your gun up right when things get hairy. Let's dive into what this lock is, why people want it gone, and how the removal process actually works.
Why that little hole exists in the first place
To understand why we're even talking about Smith and Wesson internal lock removal, we have to look back at the late 1990s. At the time, Smith & Wesson was owned by a British company called Tomkins PLC. They entered into a controversial agreement with the Clinton administration to include certain safety features on their firearms to avoid lawsuits. One of those features was the internal locking system (ILS).
The idea was simple: use a small key to lock the hammer and trigger, making the gun inert. While it sounded like a win for safety advocates, the core fan base was furious. It felt like a betrayal of the brand's heritage. Even though the company eventually changed hands and returned to American ownership, the lock stayed on the majority of their revolver line. Today, while you can find some "no-lock" models—mostly in the Airweight J-frame lineup—the vast majority of new S&W revolvers still come with that little hole.
The mechanical "what if" scenario
The biggest argument for Smith and Wesson internal lock removal isn't just about looks; it's about reliability. There is a persistent fear that under heavy recoil, the locking mechanism could accidentally engage itself.
Imagine you're shooting a lightweight Scandium frame revolver with heavy .357 Magnum loads. The physics involved are pretty violent. Critics of the lock argue that the "flag" (the internal part that moves to block the hammer) can flutter or drop due to that inertia, effectively "bricking" your handgun.
Now, if you talk to Smith & Wesson, they'll tell you the failure rate is incredibly low. And honestly, they aren't wrong. Thousands of people shoot "locked" Smith guns every day without a single hitch. However, in the world of concealed carry or dangerous game hunting, "rare" isn't the same as "never." If you're the one person whose gun locks up during a defensive encounter, the statistics don't really matter. That's why many shooters decide that the peace of mind offered by removal is worth the effort.
What Smith and Wesson internal lock removal looks like
If you've decided you want that lock gone, you have a couple of options. The most common method involves taking the gun apart and physically removing the locking "flag."
Before you even touch a screwdriver, you need to make sure you have the right tools. Don't just grab a random flathead from the junk drawer. Smith & Wesson side plate screws are notorious for being easily marred. You want high-quality, hollow-ground screwdrivers that fit the slots perfectly.
Popping the side plate
Once you've cleared the gun (check it twice, then check it again), you'll need to remove the grips and the side plate screws. A little tip from the old-timers: don't pry the side plate off. You'll bend it or scratch the frame. Instead, tap the frame or the grip frame with a plastic mallet or the wooden handle of a hammer. The vibration will eventually cause the side plate to "pop" up on its own.
Removing the guts
Inside, you'll see the clockwork-like beauty of the S&W action. The lock mechanism consists of the key cylinder and a small metal piece called the flag. When you turn the key, the flag rises and blocks the hammer. To perform the Smith and Wesson internal lock removal, you essentially just pull that flag out. Some people choose to remove the entire assembly, including the spring and the external circular piece, while others just remove the flag and leave the rest so the hole is still filled.
Dealing with the "hole" left behind
Once you've finished the Smith and Wesson internal lock removal, you're left with a literal hole in the side of your frame. It looks unfinished, and it's a great way for lint, dust, and moisture to get inside your action.
This is where "The Plug" comes in. There are a few small-scale manufacturers and enthusiasts who make a CNC-machined piece specifically designed to fill that void. It's a tiny metal slug that fits into the hole and is held in place by a small clip on the inside. When you find one that matches your finish—whether it's stainless, blued, or black—it makes the gun look much closer to the classic "pre-lock" models. It's a subtle touch, but for most of us, it's the finishing move that makes the project feel complete.
The legal and liability elephant in the room
We can't talk about Smith and Wesson internal lock removal without touching on the legal side of things. This is where the internet experts usually start shouting at each other.
The concern is this: if you ever have to use that revolver in a self-defense situation, a prosecutor or a plaintiff's attorney might try to paint you as a "reckless tinkerer." They might argue that by removing a manufacturer-installed safety device, you showed a disregard for safety.
Is this a realistic concern? It depends on who you ask. Most legal experts will tell you that if a shooting is justified, the mechanical state of the gun shouldn't matter. However, we live in a litigious world. If you're worried about how a jury might look at a "modified" weapon, you might want to stick to a factory "no-lock" model or a vintage pre-lock Smith. But for a dedicated range toy or a hunting backup, the liability factor is usually much lower on the priority list.
Does it change the trigger pull?
One question that pops up a lot is whether Smith and Wesson internal lock removal actually makes the trigger better. The short answer is: not really.
The lock mechanism doesn't typically put any significant drag on the hammer or trigger during a normal stroke. If you're looking to lighten your double-action pull or crisp up the single-action break, you're better off looking at a spring kit or a professional trigger job. Removing the lock is purely about reliability and aesthetics. That said, some shooters claim the gun feels "cleaner" mentally, knowing there isn't an extra piece of spring-loaded metal waiting to fail inside the frame.
Wrapping it up
At the end of the day, Smith and Wesson internal lock removal is a personal choice. If you've got a modern 686 or a Model 29 and that little hole doesn't bother you, there's no mandatory reason to mess with it. Most of these guns will fire thousands of rounds without the lock ever lifting a finger.
But if you're like a lot of us who grew up admiring the clean, uninterrupted lines of a vintage Model 19 or Model 27, that lock is a constant reminder of a weird era in gun manufacturing. Taking it out isn't particularly difficult if you have the right tools and a bit of patience. Whether you do it for the "cool factor" of having a plugged frame or for the peace of mind that your gun won't lock up in a crisis, it's a modification that remains incredibly popular for a reason. Just remember to keep your original parts in a labeled baggie—you never know when you might want to put it back to factory stock for a future sale.